Thursday, February 24, 2011

Travels with Frank: Breakdown in the Amazon

(please read this entry with a sense of humor because, believe it or not, I did write it with a smile on my face...a deranged smile, but a SMILE nonetheless...)

It's official. It's been 45 days since I left Cartagena with Frank and 29 days since we boarded our first boat in Coca on the Rio Napo in Ecuador. We're halfway there and Julia's TIRED. And sick of MANY things thus far. Allow me to expound on that last statement.


I'm sick of boats. I'm sick of hammocks. I'm sick of rice, plantains, white bread, bland pasta, and weird sections of meat I can't identify. I'm sick of screaming children and crying babies. I'm sick of squealing, enraged pigs and constantly confused crowing roosters. I'm sick of disgusting bathrooms and no toilet seats. I'm sick of weaving and ducking through impossibly crowded decks of hammocks to get to the bathroom or off the boat. I'm sick of wading through sh*t: pig sh*t, chicken sh*t, people sh*t. I'm sick of toxic black exhaust and the smell of urine and sh*t of all kinds. I'm sick of not sleeping well. I'm sick of epically slow Internet connections and no wi-fi and bad instant coffee with no cream. I'm sick of smelly clothes and not at least having the option of a nice restaurant or supermarket to eat from. I'm sick of limited water and electricity. I'm sick of bug bites that won't heal and men staring at me and cat-calling (no I don't want to talk to you or give you the time of day; why should you be different than any other old man trying to get my attention?). I'm sick of heat and humidity and never ending stickiness.. I'm sick of constantly meeting new travelers and the same old questions: Where you coming? Where you going? How long? I'm sick of being either constipated or running to the bathroom every 10 minutes. I'm sick of ants swarming everywhere. I'm sick of dirty, loud buses, reggaeton and changing money and badly dubbed pirated movies. I'm sick of Frank stressing over every cent, sole, peso and real, being too slow and getting caught up in every little detail. I'm pretty much sick of everything

BUT. I WILL GET ON ANOTHER 4-DAY BOAT TO MANAUS IN 3 DAYS. IN MANAUS I WILL GET ON YET ANOTHER BOAT THAT WILL TAKE 5 MORE DAYS TO GET TO BELEM. I WILL PUT UP WITH ALL OF THESE THINGS BECAUSE I HAVE MADE IT HALFWAY DOWN THE AMAZON AND INDEED WILL NOT QUIT NOW. I'VE CROSSED THROUGH 3 COUNTRIES AND FARC-INFESTED JUNGLE. I WAS STRANDED IN A SMALL VILLAGE FOR 10 DAYS AND THEN ON A TINY, CROWDED COMMERCIAL BOAT WITH TRAUMATIZING MONSTER-PIGS FOR ANOTHER 10 DAYS. I WENT THROUGH HELL FOR THAT BLASTED BRAZILIAN VISA (GETTING YELLED AT BY BOTH CONSULATES VISITED) AND PAID $140 BUCKAROOS FOR A MERE 90 DAYS (still bitter about that). I HAVE MADE IT THIS FAR AND WILL NOT BACK DOWN NOW. I WILL MAKE IT ALL THE WAY DOWN THE AMAZON RIVER TO THE ATLANTIC OCEAN BECAUSE I AM JULIA AND I WILL FINISH THIS CRAZY, DERANGED JOURNEY THAT I HAVE BEGUN COME HELL OR HIGH WATER OR IF FRANK HAS TO DRAG MY SORRY, TIRED BUM ALL THE WAY THERE. I WILL DO IT. I WILL MAKE IT. IF IT'S THE LAST THING I DO.

Travels with Frank: Scraps of Life in a Small Amazonian Village


FB Posts that would have been had I decent Internet for my 10 days in Pantoja...

-dreamed about quesedias with velveeta cheese. I don't even eat velveeta cheese but DAMN those looked GOOD! Wonder when the last time anyone here actually ate cheese...

-actually won at poker last night...too bad we were only wagering with aluminium Peruvian centimos and old military buttons...

-YAY for firefly filled trees and insanely bright (light pollution-free) starry skies!

-would like to thank Frank for at least getting that MONSTROUS intimidating arachnid to move behind the shelving--outta sight, outta mind! I'll sleep tonight!


-feels really sorry for the two turtles waiting out the end in Rodrigo's kitchen...wonder how long they've been waiting there to be cooked...

-had a really TASTY dish of "majas," a local jungle rodent, relative of the guinea pig. Better than chicken or pork! YUM! MORE MAJAS, PLEASE!

-wonders how truly preventative a mosquito net is when you wake up and the first thing you see is a HUGE cockroach hanging out right above your head IN your netting...I guess they only call it a "mosquito" net...

-Yay! One of the turtles trapped in the kitchen escaped!

-spent the afternoon walking through the jungle munching on freshly scavenged sugar cane.

-finally found a board that will allow her to sit with comfort on Rodrigo's toilet. YAY! Never been so excited about a piece of wood before. It really is the little things...

-can't get enough fried plantains. YUM!


-would be a fan of Amazonian fish if it weren't absolutely FULL of bones (that get lodged in her gums!) OUCH!

-BROKE AN HOUR TODAY ON HER RUN! SUCCESS!

-saw a little boy carrying the charred corpse of half a monkey by the arm home for dinner...


-along with her friend Dara, were the honorary guests on the Pantoja military base for their monthly celebration. Watched their football matches and then for 3 hours was surrounded by 70 soldiers dancing salsa...

-would like to extend a "thank you" to Frank for doing another good job trimming her hair. Not exactly professional, but it'll do in a pinch.

-admits that constantly being serenaded by the town poet every time she leaves her accommodation, while initially flattering, is now getting a bit old...

-SALVATION! A small commercial boat arrived randomly in town today! It will be going to Iquitos! WE ARE SAVED!